Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Disembarkation

Nervous, excited and the slightest bit overwhelmed, Natalie and I leave for Afghanistan tomorrow afternoon. We fly to Chicago, on to Zurich, and on to Dubai where we'll crash in a hotel for a night. Then, we'll fly to Kabul, change airports, and on to the Northern Region.

Its been a whirlwind since we returned from the first trip, and really doesn't feel like we've been back for six weeks. Our time in Tennessee and Iowa has been filled with great conversations with family, friends, and a few wise and gracious couples. Life has been rich as we've delved into our concerns and hopes for this time.

Naturally, Natalie and I have had much to think through and discuss. A conversation on death struck heavy chords in both our hearts. Obviously, death isn't something we enjoy pondering, but we both found some freedom in the conversation, mainly from fear and anxiety. The whole process of planning to live in Afghanistan, albeit for only three months, has been one of evaluating personal barriers, risk, and our purpose in going (beyond fulfilling a job contract).

I can't wait to get on a plane tomorrow and have my world rocked by Afghan culture and life. Cheers!



Sunday, November 13, 2011

Pictures from Afghanistan















Life Behind & Ahead: Afghanistan

My wife and I traveled to Tennessee the last week of October and the first week of November. It was a good time with everyone back home. We were able to unload with some older, wiser people from varied backgrounds, which was much needed with everything we have been processing.

As expected, time in Murfreesboro was quite busy, and I ended up spending more time out and about rather than relaxing with my family. The time we did spend together was sweet, particularly with Josh, my little brother, who is planning a trip to Chile. It was also the best trip we've had to Memphis. I'm grateful to have such wonderful "in-laws". Since it was our first time there as a married couple, the dynamics were quite different. We spent lots of time laughing, talking, and enjoying each others company. Natalie stayed an extra week to be with her sister and our new nephew, Jack O'Dell. Wish I could've been there to see the baby, and while I miss Natalie, I know its a great time for her to catch up with everyone and not worry about me in the background.

Two weeks before returning to TN, we were in Iraq and Afghanistan. We had lots of meetings in Iraq, some with our business partners and some with farmers. The Kurdish Region of Iraq is very progressive. There are four-story malls, coffee shops, and pizza joints. The people are warm, welcoming, and hospitable. One of my favorite parts of the trip was a random meeting we had with the headman of a farming village. He wore greenish, baggy pants with a long stringy belt, a black and white checkered headscarf, and a large, wiry mustache. We were brought water, tea, and a thick yogurt drink, which tasted pretty smoky, so I assume it was milk boiled and curdled over a fire. I look forward to more days like this should the Iraq project obtain the investments needed to begin with the new year.

It was a speedy few days, and off we went to Afghanistan. After passing through multiple check points, we flew out of Erbil to Dubai at 1:30 am. By the time we reached Dubai, it was about 5 am or so and we all felt like road-kill. From there we flew to Kabul, rushed through customs (except for a hold up on some of our work equipment...), and on we traveled to the North, arriving later in the evening. It was quite the travel endeavor.

Of the twenty or so countries I've traveled to, I've never seen such intense and devouring stares as in Afghanistan. I don't necessarily think the stares were motivated by ill-intent, but it makes one suspicious. It is rugged, dusty, and dry. Traffic is crazy; not so much in terms of how much there is but in how insane some of the passing maneuvers are when your traveling to work and back. I spent most of my days leaving in the morning for the mill and getting back to the office for dinner and social accolades. Apart from the insane driving at times, going to the soy mill was rather enjoyable. We drove down the main roadway, around the Great Blue Mosque, by the carpet markets, bus station, and soon-to-be new university and on to the mill.

The Blue Mosque is famous for two things. One, for being the supposed burial place of Ali (Muhammad's cousin & son-in-law), and two, for turning all the local doves and pigeons white. Shia Muslims believe that Ali was the correct successor to Mohammad, and thus came the split between Sunni and Shia Islam. (Most Shias actually believe Ali's burial site to be in Najaf, Iraq).

Most of our time was spent running a new wiring system for the mill, cleaning things up, and waiting for some new electric panels to arrive from Dubai. The initial purpose of the trip was to commission the mill into operation, but its Afghanistan...nothing happens on time. So, we got as much done as possible to prepare for the commissioning. (The only thing remaining at this point is getting power, which requires a bit of work on our transformer and the completion of a power line from Uzbekistan). Hopefully the mill will be commissioned in a few weeks, but if the electricity isn't working soon, we'll have to push back until February or so, which isn't optimal.

Natalie and I will be leaving in a few weeks. This time it'll be a slightly easier trip because we'll have a day to rest in Dubai and won't be traveling through Iraq, but this time we'll be there for three months. I'll have plenty to do whether the mill is commissioned or not, and Natalie is looking forward to teaching English. And we're both looking forward to a more stable routine for a few months. This seems ironic since its Afghanistan, but we've been in other people's homes and hotel rooms more than our own apartment over the past six months. I'll try to write more and post some pictures.