Monday, November 3, 2014

Rajasthan & Beyond

It's been nearly five months since my arrival in India. I've managed to stay very busy here all the while enjoying an incredibly unique culture and participating in new learning experiences.

During our brief August break, Natalie arrived in Delhi. After visiting a few historical sites, we traveled to Darjeeling before heading back to Jaipur. Darjeeling, dubbed "Queen of the Hills", is a beautiful city situated in northernmost West Bengal near the Nepali border. From the rooftops you can watch the historic toy train wind through the mountains, and see Kanchenjunga (third highest mountain in the world) towering over the hills in the distance. Most people visit tea plantations--Darjeeling's most famous attraction. While we did wander through a few tea plantations and spoke with some tea laborers, we spent most of our time trekking village to village and staying with small farmers. Not only was this great practice for my Hindi, it was also a time of observation and exploration into how different the mountainous agriculture systems are, especially compared to those in my current region of Rajasthan. In the mountains, agro-diversity is greater; they grow a number of crops, including: squash, potatoes, onions, corn, mountain rice, wheat, etc. They also have cows, buffalo, and goats. All of these crops and livestock work together in an integrated system, wherein there is little waste and virtually no mechanization. In these mountainous regions, crops are planted together, livestock manure is the only form of fertilizer, and labor is all by hand. I was able to experience first hand some of these farming practices and talk with farmers about how weather influences their decision-making.







After Darjeeling, we returned to Jaipur where Natalie set to work on her own projects, and I returned to my Hindi studies at the institute. My typical week consists of 20 classroom hours in Hindi, and another 10-20 hours of Hindi homework. In our classes, we study grammar, watch movies, listen to radio shows and news stories, and read articles and literature. We also write five pages per week in a Hindi journal and have conversations on various cultural topics such as: love marriages vs. arranged marriages, LGBT rights, international development, etc. I'm now in advanced classes, but progress seems much harder to come by. I feel like I'm facing a long plateau in the language learning process, but trust that staying the course will bring me to yet another level of understanding.



I've used my journal every week to translate a consumer questionnaire into Hindi. This has been a fantastic, though challenging experience for me. Luckily, I've had continuous encouragement and help from my advising professors in the States, and from my Hindi instructors here. At the end of the year, students must write a twenty page paper, and present the topic for 30-45 minutes in Hindi. My consumer questionnaire will provide a great foundation for these Hindi projects and will prepare me to present the findings in both Hindi and English language settings. I plan to administer the questionnaire to more than 300 people in Jaipur, so I've certainly got my work cut out for me between now and early May. I will have the questionnaire translated by mid-November, and expect to have my first responses back in just a few short weeks.

Outside of Hindi and research, we've recently gotten the opportunity to attend several cultural events. Deshera and Diwali took place a few weeks back. Natalie and I visited Udaipur for Deshera and watched several wild and colorful parades in the street. A statue of the goddess Shiva is mounted in a pickup truck or tractor with puja (worship) music blaring over very loud speakers. For Diwali, our neighbors invited us over for local sweets and prayers to the Goddess Lakshmi for wealth and happiness in their homes. We followed families back and forth to one another's homes as they did puja together. Like most experiences in India, Diwali was a "non-linear" occasion. People show up in the middle of prayers, answer their phones, and talk about how hot and/or long the ceremonies are. It was actually pleasant to see the honesty and unrestrained humanity in such a religious setting.




This past weekend we went to Pushkar (one of the places I visited this summer) for a camel festival. The Pushkar festival is supposedly one of the largest livestock fairs in the world. We saw camels, horses, and cows for sale. The real event, though, was seeing the camels and horses dressed up in true Rajasthani colorful garb as they danced for the crowds. It was reminiscent of a state fair in the US, only with larger crowds, wilder carnival rides, and suffocating dust in the air. We listened to camel-wallas haggle over prices, and rode what I'm sure was a completely unregulated, not to mention terrifying, Ferris wheel. It was a wonderful weekend filled with intense cultural elements neither of us had ever experienced. We returned to Jaipur on a train that was overbooked, where there were two people to each seat and people standing in the aisles. After four hours on a train that was supposed to take two hours, we finally made it back to our apartment, exhausted. I still had to get up early this morning to prepare for my Hindi classes.








Living here requires a lot of self-awareness. I've found that in the midst of all the intense cultural interactions, I need to balance them with time to reflect on what I'm doing here and why. It's easy to stay busy all the time--there's never a lack of things to do. But in order to reap the benefits of studying here, I have to make time for solitary activities like: early morning reading and journaling. This part of my routine is, and will increasingly be, invaluable for my ability to focus on administering my survey, maintaining the motivation to study Hindi, and continuing my data analysis on droughts across India's districts. Though I've spent nearly three years abroad, 10 months of which have been in India, I am still overwhelmed by the challenges of cross-cultural communication. I have to remind myself of the long-term goals I set out to accomplish, and must continuously re-examine these goals in light of my everyday experiences here. It is from this perspective that I am able to answer the "so what" question in my research. So what if I publish papers on drought and agriculture production in India? How will that change things here on the ground? How will it have an impact on the livelihoods of farmers and others I meet? That's why I'm here: to explore answers to these questions and think about how to create the greatest impact through my research.




Saturday, August 16, 2014

Mostly Pictures.

Back in Delhi after two solid months in Rajasthan, the आराम (rest) is setting in. My body and mind have collapsed into the luxury of a nice metro within walking distance, delicious coffee and food around every corner, and large trees and greenery lining every road and path. Natalie arrives on Sunday night, and thanks to a good friend from the program, we have a very nice place to stay near Lodhi Gardens.

My summer in Jaipur was really incredible--great fellow students, encouraging faculty, and delightful (though sometimes overwhelming) exposure to Hindi and Rajasthani culture. The American Institute of Indian Studies has developed a truly fantastic program, and while I'm glad for the break until September, I look forward to continuing my journey into Hindi language and culture during the academic year.

I met a number of farmers this summer, and observed various farming practices and landscapes all across Rajasthan--a predominantly arid and semi-arid state in Western-most India. In these few but valuable discussions, water topped the list of important issues these farmers face. This wasn't surprising, but as I've stated before, putting faces and names to these regions which are impacted by drought and volatile weather has been important and motivating for my research. Several of these farmers planted fewer crops and utilized less area (sometimes up to half-as-much less) this year due to a delayed monsoon. The smaller farmers didn't seem to have many options to make up for these losses aside from relying on family to get by this year. One farmer (with more land than the others I spoke with) was able to obtain a state government loan to get through this year. When asked what would happen if drought or delayed monsoon persisted one or two more years, he looked at the ground and said he would lose everything and be incapable of repaying the loan. While these conversations aren't enough to build a thesis on, or publish anything in an academic journal, they are enough to keep me thinking about climate change as it applies to Indian farmers and agriculture. These are the people who shape my questions about the impacts of climate change and changing weather patterns.

Highlights from summer excursions:

  • Pushkar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brahma_Temple,_Pushkar)--A city situated a few hours from Jaipur and a pilgrimage site for many. Brahma's most famous temple dating to the 14th century sits by a beautiful lake. We wandered the streets, visited the temple, and rested on the Ghats as mantras were chanted to drum rhythms at sunset. 
  • On the way back to Jaipur from Pushkar, we stopped at the Tilonia Barefoot College (http://www.tilonia.com/). There, we had a tour of their solar panel workshop, solar cookers, textiles work, and efficient irrigation systems.
  • Jaisalmer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaisalmer)--A famous desert city in far West Rajasthan. We visited a famous Jain Temple, wherein there were seven chambers with elaborate sandstone carvings and sculptures. We also rode camels and spent a night in the Thar Desert National Park. Though quite an uncomfortable night sleeping in the sand, the stars were vibrant and enumerable.
  • Sawai Madhopur & Ranthambore National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ranthambore_National_Park)--I took a trip with an Indian friend to Sawai Madhopur on the border of Madhya Pradesh State. We visited a famous Ganesh temple and went on a 15 km hike through the jungle. About half way, we reached some cliffs where the Suleshvar Shiva temple resides. We climbed up, bathed in the holy water, and watched pilgrims make "puja" (worship) and perform "arthi" (chanting mantras in Sanskrit). While we spotted no tigers, in the last leg of our hike, we saw a Nilgai, which may be one of the more fascinating animals I've ever seen. The body was akin to that of a moose, the head that of a small deer with pronghorn antlers, and the color blue-grey. I wasn't able to capture it in a photo but it was an amazing sight. 

Below are pictures from these various outings:

Ranthambore National Park




Ganesh Temple





Suleshvar Shiva Temple




Jaisalmer




 Thar Desert National Park




Tilonia Barefoot College





Gardisar Lake-Jaisalmer




Tilonia--Solar Panel Workshop



Pushkar
Flower farmer with a few dairy cows





Jaipur Streets




Monday, July 7, 2014

The Move to Jaipur--Beginning a year in the "Pink City"

My, how time has flown since I left the States nearly a month ago. It's all been a rush. I left Arkansas on June 2nd, and flew to Delhi from Nashville on June 14th. I stayed at the American Institute of Indian Studies (AIIS) guest house for a few nights, and then they bused us (about 30 students) to Jaipur, which is typically a five hour drive, but took us a mere twelve. 

AIIS arranged housing in Jaipur beforehand, so I moved into my flat within a day of arrival. My roommate is a French PhD student from Cornell, whose research focuses on agrarian politics in Uttar Pradesh, so it couldn't be a better fit for the summer program.  

Natalie will arrive in mid-August, and interestingly, I think my apartment here is nicer than anywhere Natalie and I have lived since we got married. It's spacious, within a kilometer of the institute, and we have A/C and a water filter. The apartment is on a quiet street, and around the corner from a local market called Janta Store. I get all of my fruits, vegetables, and staples there, and occasionally drop by Sanjay's for one of the best omelettes I've had, or by the ice cream shop for some respite from the heat. 

India's an imposing place--it interrupts stereotypes, peals back cultural layers, and shakes world views. One is welcomed into a world of questions, prodding, and self-searching, which is the perfect environment for a young, somewhat naive researcher. My research--focused on climate change, drought, and shifting agriculture production--has at times felt distant, technological, and disconnected from people on the ground. Being here changes that notion. This is where it happens; these are people affected by what I'm studying. It's unlikely that I'll make some great discovery which changes large-scale outcomes, but if I can add an iota to what's already been done, and it has some positive effect, I will have accomplished what I set out to do.

Daily life here is busy for us. We have Hindi courses 20 hours per week, along with another 20 hours or so of homework. It's an incredible amount of work, and very exhausting. We learn a great deal very quickly, and like studying anything, the more one learns, the more one realizes how much there is to learn.

Below are some pictures from the first few weeks: