Buzkashi: The Most Intense Horse Sport

Yesterday morning, I woke up looking forward to having a quiet day of reading, writing, and enjoying coffee as a solid start to the weekend, which is on Thursday and Friday here, but instead, I rushed to get ready for a rather unique experience. My neighbor called just after we woke up and asked if I'd like to join him and a few others at a "Buzkashi" tournament. I'd heard of this sport a few years ago when writing a paper on the Pashtuns, but never imagined I'd have the opportunity to actually see it in person. So, of course, I went.

We traveled about 30 minutes to Balkh City, which is one of the oldest cities in the world and a home place of Zoroaster (father of Zoroastrianism). I will write another post about this city in the future. From there we traveled to Dalatabad, where we had lunch in a small restaurant with a Pashto friend. The restaurant was of typical Afghan style. You walk through a sort of rug-curtain, remove your shoes and step onto a platform where men (and men only) sit lining the walls to eat. (I've never been surrounded by so many large beards, and truly, wish they could come to the Whiskerino Festival in Nashville. I'm quite sure they would all be top contestants.)

We all had to wear Shalwar Qamiz to try to blend in, which I'm sure was laughable, but at least we were warm and comfortable. We drove to the Buzkashi field on a long, bumpy dirt road. Our Pashto friend put us in a place of honor, on the front row with our feet dangling from the seats. This meant we had to raise our legs when the riders would come by to make sure we didn't have our legs crushed. He also took us to meet riders and get on one of the horses; word has it that our friend was quite the player in his day. I wish we could've seen him. We were so close I even had a horse bite my shoe in the midst of all the excitement.

I'll mainly let the videos and pictures speak for themselves, but here's how it works. "Buzkashi" literally means-- "goat dragging" in the Tajik language. It is the national sport of Afghanistan, but it was banned during Taliban times. Buzkashi players ride various horses-- of which I was surprised to see, not only Quarters and Arabians, but some draft breeds as well. The players wear long, thick robe-like garb, a hat, and tall leather boots. The field is a few hundred meters long with a flag at one end and a circular goal area at the other. The stadium is set up with the circular end as the hot spot near the seats, and the flag is at the opposite end of the field from spectators.

The game begins with a headless goat (or calf) in the circle. The referee and/or announcer blows a whistle to begin the game. The riders charge in for the goat and lean all the way to the ground to grab it. This is quite challenging when riders are rearing up and using short leather whips to ward off other horses or players. Its quite difficult to see what's going on even if they're right in front of you. Once the goat is off the ground, the rider will try to break free of other players to round the flag and come back to drop the goat in the circle. Winning riders gain honor, and they get a money prize, which usually starts low and grows until the game is over. There are various types of Buzkashi, but in the game we watched, there were no teams. It was every man for himself and there were probably a hundred horses on the field. Hard core.

I tried to upload some video footage multiple times, but my connection is too weak. Hopefully I'll be able to post them in the future.

Cheers to a Happy New Year!

Christmas Confessions from Afghanistan

Its been a few weeks since I've written. While it was on my mind a lot, the words just never came. Christmas was a bit lonely in Afghanistan. Natalie and I made the most of it by spending time with our Country Director, cooking together and sitting by the fire. We reminisced on the last seven months of life together, pondering the challenges and the many things we've learned thus far.

It was exactly a month ago when we were boarding our flight in Des Moines with Mazar-i-Sharif as our final destination, and this has become the longest we've been in any one place since we got married. We moved to Grinnell, Iowa, but spent time in Kansas City, Tennessee, Illinois, and a short trip through Iraq and Afghanistan before actually moving here. Hard to believe all that's taken place!

Traditions typically aren't my thing. I tend to keep to myself when people go jolly nuts over any particular holiday or rant on the 'correct' way to carry out certain events, but this year was a little different. Well, maybe not completely different in the sense that I've become some sort of ecstatic holiday-lover, but I missed my family's traditions-- namely, going to my Grandparents on Christmas Eve, and then sitting with my parents, brothers, my sister and her family, and our wonderful Indian brother and his family afterwards. Now that I have a wife, I also longed to enjoy their traditions and partake in the laughter I'm certain took place in their home.

For the first time, I was quite sad at the limited options I had in the realm of giving. I've always enjoyed giving, but never felt the same pangs of restriction as I did this time (which has made me wonder how much I've given truly out of good will and not just as a social pressure, etc.). Mazar isn't the easiest place to find your wife the things you would like to get her. But, I managed to buy her (us) a twenty year old hand-made carpet from the bazaar. It was quite the experience. I had three cups of tea and spoke with the gentleman for an hour or more before finally settling on the one I bought. I believe I'll visit him again before we leave.

So, the season brought about three confessions.

1. I am not as much of an independent loner as I sometimes make out to be. 
2. I am not much of a traditionalist, but actually missed some tradition this year. 
3. And I'm not sure I've ever given quite as honestly or joyfully as I did this year (and plan to upon our return). 

A belated cheers to you all this Christmas and happy new year!

Great Video of Afghanistan

"Afghanistan- touch down in flight"
http://vimeo.com/31426899

Afghanistan: A Reading List

Between yesterday and today, I've written quite a lot, but not anything to share here. Some have been interested in what to read about Afghanistan, so I thought I'd post a few good books on Afghanistan.

Oh, and I'd like to promote a website: www.betterworldbooks.com. They have quite a broad selection of books and the profits go to help world literacy. Domestic shipping is also free, which I enjoy, and international shipping is only about $4, which is incredible.

Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and Bin Laden, From the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2011 by Steve Coll
http://www.betterworldbooks.com/ghost-wars-the-secret-history-of-the-cia-afghanistan-and-bin-laden-from-the-soviet-invasion-to-id-9780143034667.aspx
This book has been recommended to me by both Americans and Afghans. It is an excellent example of narrative journalism and reads quite fluidly. There's a lot of history and policy to digest, but its written in a way easy to understand. I've enjoyed it because Coll often explains external details and connects them to on the ground issues in Afghanistan.

Afghanistan: A Political and Cultural History by Dr. Thomas Barfield
http://www.betterworldbooks.com/afghanistan-a-cultural-and-political-history-id-9780691145686.aspx
Dr. Barfield spent time in Afghanistan before the Soviet Invasion. He has traveled to and studied Afghanistan for more than thirty years. Currently, he is a professor at Boston University and continues research on Afghanistan. This book provides an anthropologist's perspective on Afghanistan, and explains local governance issues and how they've been affected by a long history of invasion, local culture, etc.

Foreign Policy: The AfPak Channel
http://afpak.foreignpolicy.com/
I enjoy following the blogs, articles, and "Daily Briefs." This helps me keep up with current events in the country and region.

This is a start anyway. The more I read, the more I realize how incredibly complicated this place can be. It's  interesting how ethnocentrism takes place without our even knowing it. I expect the U.S. to be complicated and to have to read many, many books to understand even a facet of our politics, history, economy, or culture, and yet, I feel like I know something about Afghanistan after only two or three books and a few articles. Not only that, but Afghanistan has been around far, FAR longer than the U.S. Anyhow, enjoy if you wish.

Pictures: The Streets of Mazar

Bombs, Semis, and a Soy Mill

Afghanistan. I never thought I'd be here, but here I am. After one week on the ground, I feel like I've been drinking from a fire hose culturally, linguistically, work-wise, etc. Overall, I'm really enjoying the newness and radical changes, but there have already been some stressful and challenging events.

There were twin bombs in Kabul and Mazar on Tuesday, which was the Shia holiday of Ashura.* Although it was inter-religious conflict, and had nothing to do with Westerners, it was sobering. Perhaps most eye-opening was the way my mind played out the scenario for Afghans. At the end of three months, I get to go "home" to hot showers, continuous electricity, and a decent legal system. Others will live here regardless of the situation, going about their daily routines. I don't by any means place myself or my culture over theirs because all cultures are misinformed and somewhat broken, but I can't help but ponder the depths and layers of hardness created by the environment alone, much less the numerous invasions and conflict here.

*Ashura (meaning: "10th" in Arabic) is a Shia holiday of penance and mourning for Hussein and Hassan, the sons of Ali and grandsons of Muhammad. Hussein ibn Ali died at the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. 

The second event was getting crunched between an SUV and a Semi on the way to the mill yesterday. Luckily, nobody was injured apart from some whiplash. This shook me up quite a bit, and put me on edge most of the day. Mainly, it made me miss traffic laws and the enforcement thereof.

In spite of all of the above, I've observed and experienced hospitality and friendship in the midst of everything else, and see a beautiful and rich cultural history. Beyond that, Afghans do not feel sorry for themselves. They are very proud of their traditions. They are people, they eat and drink, worry about taking care of their families, enjoy poetry, and work hard.

Here's an excerpt from this week's journal:
"The food is very Central Asian (from my feeble amount of knowledge on the region): rice and meat soaked in grease and salt. Its cold here. Everywhere. We use wood-burning stoves to keep warm in the main common areas. Our guest house is like most here, mud and concrete with a blue steel gate on the street and a flat roof. Our room is cozy. We have a gas heater, large blankets on the bed, and a carved table next to the bed. The mattress and sheets are actually quite comfortable compared to many places I've stayed in Asia and Africa. We have a small cupboard, several wall-hangings, and blue curtains with a pattern of faint golden circles. Nights are filled with barking dogs, the occasional car horn, and a five a.m. wake-up call from the mosque. Showers are hot, but usually have to be from a bucket because the shower head only provides a small trickle, and once again, it's cold getting in and out."

Pictures to come soon.

Disembarkation

Nervous, excited and the slightest bit overwhelmed, Natalie and I leave for Afghanistan tomorrow afternoon. We fly to Chicago, on to Zurich, and on to Dubai where we'll crash in a hotel for a night. Then, we'll fly to Kabul, change airports, and on to the Northern Region.

Its been a whirlwind since we returned from the first trip, and really doesn't feel like we've been back for six weeks. Our time in Tennessee and Iowa has been filled with great conversations with family, friends, and a few wise and gracious couples. Life has been rich as we've delved into our concerns and hopes for this time.

Naturally, Natalie and I have had much to think through and discuss. A conversation on death struck heavy chords in both our hearts. Obviously, death isn't something we enjoy pondering, but we both found some freedom in the conversation, mainly from fear and anxiety. The whole process of planning to live in Afghanistan, albeit for only three months, has been one of evaluating personal barriers, risk, and our purpose in going (beyond fulfilling a job contract).

I can't wait to get on a plane tomorrow and have my world rocked by Afghan culture and life. Cheers!

Pictures from Afghanistan

Life Behind & Ahead: Afghanistan

My wife and I traveled to Tennessee the last week of October and the first week of November. It was a good time with everyone back home. We were able to unload with some older, wiser people from varied backgrounds, which was much needed with everything we have been processing.

As expected, time in Murfreesboro was quite busy, and I ended up spending more time out and about rather than relaxing with my family. The time we did spend together was sweet, particularly with Josh, my little brother, who is planning a trip to Chile. It was also the best trip we've had to Memphis. I'm grateful to have such wonderful "in-laws". Since it was our first time there as a married couple, the dynamics were quite different. We spent lots of time laughing, talking, and enjoying each others company. Natalie stayed an extra week to be with her sister and our new nephew, Jack O'Dell. Wish I could've been there to see the baby, and while I miss Natalie, I know its a great time for her to catch up with everyone and not worry about me in the background.

Two weeks before returning to TN, we were in Iraq and Afghanistan. We had lots of meetings in Iraq, some with our business partners and some with farmers. The Kurdish Region of Iraq is very progressive. There are four-story malls, coffee shops, and pizza joints. The people are warm, welcoming, and hospitable. One of my favorite parts of the trip was a random meeting we had with the headman of a farming village. He wore greenish, baggy pants with a long stringy belt, a black and white checkered headscarf, and a large, wiry mustache. We were brought water, tea, and a thick yogurt drink, which tasted pretty smoky, so I assume it was milk boiled and curdled over a fire. I look forward to more days like this should the Iraq project obtain the investments needed to begin with the new year.

It was a speedy few days, and off we went to Afghanistan. After passing through multiple check points, we flew out of Erbil to Dubai at 1:30 am. By the time we reached Dubai, it was about 5 am or so and we all felt like road-kill. From there we flew to Kabul, rushed through customs (except for a hold up on some of our work equipment...), and on we traveled to the North, arriving later in the evening. It was quite the travel endeavor.

Of the twenty or so countries I've traveled to, I've never seen such intense and devouring stares as in Afghanistan. I don't necessarily think the stares were motivated by ill-intent, but it makes one suspicious. It is rugged, dusty, and dry. Traffic is crazy; not so much in terms of how much there is but in how insane some of the passing maneuvers are when your traveling to work and back. I spent most of my days leaving in the morning for the mill and getting back to the office for dinner and social accolades. Apart from the insane driving at times, going to the soy mill was rather enjoyable. We drove down the main roadway, around the Great Blue Mosque, by the carpet markets, bus station, and soon-to-be new university and on to the mill.

The Blue Mosque is famous for two things. One, for being the supposed burial place of Ali (Muhammad's cousin & son-in-law), and two, for turning all the local doves and pigeons white. Shia Muslims believe that Ali was the correct successor to Mohammad, and thus came the split between Sunni and Shia Islam. (Most Shias actually believe Ali's burial site to be in Najaf, Iraq).

Most of our time was spent running a new wiring system for the mill, cleaning things up, and waiting for some new electric panels to arrive from Dubai. The initial purpose of the trip was to commission the mill into operation, but its Afghanistan...nothing happens on time. So, we got as much done as possible to prepare for the commissioning. (The only thing remaining at this point is getting power, which requires a bit of work on our transformer and the completion of a power line from Uzbekistan). Hopefully the mill will be commissioned in a few weeks, but if the electricity isn't working soon, we'll have to push back until February or so, which isn't optimal.

Natalie and I will be leaving in a few weeks. This time it'll be a slightly easier trip because we'll have a day to rest in Dubai and won't be traveling through Iraq, but this time we'll be there for three months. I'll have plenty to do whether the mill is commissioned or not, and Natalie is looking forward to teaching English. And we're both looking forward to a more stable routine for a few months. This seems ironic since its Afghanistan, but we've been in other people's homes and hotel rooms more than our own apartment over the past six months. I'll try to write more and post some pictures.

Erbil, Iraq

Kurdistan, Iraq